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Mat Boarder
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Here and Now deets-02.jpg

Sliders and riders, we are honoured to announce Ken McKnight's latest Here and Now piece.

An in depth look at the swim fin legend that is Greg Deets.

Read all about it here:

http://www.ukmatsurfers.com/greg-deets


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piskian

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Floppy Joe
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Reply with quote  #2 
Great!Been too long.That,s my evening sorted.
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Floppy Joe
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Reply with quote  #3 
i first saw Greg Deets AKA spiderman at wedge in the early 80s on one of the biggest days i had ridden up to that point
the waves were so big you could look through the pitching barrels and fit the jetty and pole stacked up 3x inside it . i remember  seeing Greg do an under water take off and pop out  in the air like a DOLPHIN landing  as he completed an air spinner reconnecting perfectly in the slot to this day some of the most impressive  bodysurfing i have ever seen. to me  he  was the best of the best miles above the other wedge riders even if he wont ever say it.I was able to connect with him years later after he started mat  riding and the  re-release of the  famous  udts happened. i got really lucky and  got  one out of two pairs that  were in the mans own words "perfect flex"(they feel like fly swatters on my feet a lil wriggle  gets the tip flicking then i  start to transfer some actual leg m power into them they are not  the  big  clunky dive  fin you would  imagine if you get  the  pair with perfect flex ) these  were my red marbled  pair which i still use as my daily drivers when i mat ride. i am not much of  body surfer  but   one day at wedge  after blackball  the waves were so perfect and the  "locals" at the time were  doing such a poor job of riding them  myself and another infamous  bodyboarder/matrider decided we needed to go  back out and  show  em how it was  done properly  i was struck by the fact that as the wave lifted up under me   the udts were so strong  i was able to stay at the base of the wave as the thing jacked up under me  and never  actually had to take a drop in i cant say enough about these  fins  . he turned me  onto cottons and we had some  really memorable sessions there. if you ever  meet deetts and spend  some time with him  you will eventually  have him  start talking about  some thing that you realize is  way over your   iq level if you can follow along and   your  eyes  dont glaze over in confusion he  will keep going until they do. the man is a straight  genius  he had me struggling to stay with him while talking about entropic principles relating to fish .  i took a trip  up to the shaart pipe to surf with him one day i did not know the spot and  drove into the parking lot in front of a perfect lil  shart pipe wedging peak i remember thinking is this the spot and why is no one out on that lil peak. i  slow rolled it up to the sand and started to put my suit on as i watched these  little peaks go off in front of me  sort of pinching myself that it  could not be  true that this lil peak was empty in the middle of los Angeles's huge population base  just then  two younger surfers showed up in full froth mode they were hooting and rushed out into the water before i was even suited up.i went out and  got some great waves skimming  over the nearly exposed pipe one of the waves  caught me at the top and took an air drop into the flats  into  some shallow water and barely survived at that moment i realized this place could really mess you up if you made a mistake or did not take it seriously. after about an hour  i saw another mat rider or two show up and then deets pulled up  the two surfers  started making comments  like "  well it was good while it lasted and at least we  got what we got"this is when i realized that  the mat riders and Deets had this place on lockdown  and the surfers were not at the top of the pecking order here. as soon as the first of the  matriding deets crew came out they packed it up without another word and did not even try to catch any more then the wave  they rode in.  during the session i remember taking off on a wave deets was behind me deep and omg  he not only caught  up  but went so fast i had to pull off the wave . the only time in my life i can say  i "took off "on a bodysurfer and was humbled  i will always remember my first time at the shart pipe  with deets and the crew.
piskian

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Floppy Joe
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Reply with quote  #4 
Dahlias,no apostrophes on plurals.
Still,a stimulating read!Inspiring me to get out for a swim despite the awful run of rubbish surf recently.
piskian

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Floppy Joe
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Reply with quote  #5 
Are there many other bodysurfer matters?Seems a select bunch of watermen.
G

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Magic Towel Meister
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Reply with quote  #6 
Great post Jamo.

Top job from Bryn and Kendog on this. [smile]

This shot came up on Instagram. Taken by Mel Thoman of Greg in 1977.

G

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matt23

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Floppy Joe
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Reply with quote  #7 
Enjoyed that, thanks for posting.
stu

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90 Degrees and Flying
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Reply with quote  #8 
Great piece of work,truly inspiring stuff.
UDTs changed my surfing life.
S.
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